Сначала я хотела написать один пост, в котором объединить и впечатления о городе и о том, что посмотреть в Казани. Но пост получился чересчур огромным, и пришлось его разбить на две части. Поэтому сейчас – только впечатления о поездке в Казань и прогулке по Кремлю. О других интересных местах, которые мы увидели и рекомендуем всем – вот здесь:
Казань, знаете ли, этакий синтез культур, древностей и современностей. Здесь, не побоюсь плевков в свой адрес, все в кучу собрано, замешено и по улицам раскидано. Так наша пятилетняя Таня может рядом с Барби посадить плюшевого медведя, которому полвека уже, рядом – пупса с безумными глазами, с одной стороны поставить дом из Лего, а с другой – пряничный домик. Получается красиво, хоть и не в едином, модном нынче современном стиле. Эклектика, одним словом.
Если есть время и желание путешествовать – поездка в Казань должна в вашей жизни произойти минимум один раз. Город из разряда – не увидел, считай, что прожил жизнь зря. Но сказать, что столица Татарстана «за душу взяла и все там перевернула» — я не скажу. Вот Нижний Новгород – тот да. Не ожидали, не строили планов, а уезжать не хотелось. Но не о Нижнем этот пост (о нем читайте здесь: Что посмотреть в Нижнем Новгороде за 2 дня), а о Казани.
Все-таки Казань великолепна. Именно великолепна и даже в превосходной степени. Такое великолепие равнодушным не оставит в любом случае. И вылизана она так, что складывается ощущение, будто ее и впрямь моют по ночам от тротуаров до труб на крышах. Здесь виновата и татарская страсть к чистоте (нас даже в отеле просили разуться у входа и топать в номер в домашних тапочках либо босиком) и активная общественная жизнь казанцев в последние годы. В Казани за последние пять лет чего только не происходило – и спортивные чемпионаты, и универсиады. И сейчас, если верить статистике туристических сайтов, город набирает популярность. Да я сама вижу, что заходов по запросу «поездка в Казань» на наш сайт достаточно много.
Но есть и ложка дегтя. Не все понравилось. В Казани все слишком ново. Слишком ярко. Слишком противоречиво и ненатурально. Все эти отреставрированные дома напоминают витрину в сувенирном магазине. Если вы планируете увидеть старинные здания, то могу вас разочаровать. Старины в Казани нет. Есть дворцы «а ля 19 век», построенные в 21 веке. Есть парки, которые хороши для фотосессий, но не для отдыха и прогулок. Есть новые скульптуры. И огромное количество кафе с псевдотатарской кухней.
Десять лет назад, когда город справил свое 1000-летие, на реставрацию была вбухана уйма денег. Причем руководствовались власти следующим – если здание не совсем уж старинное (а всего лишь 18-19 века), то его проще снести, чем отреставрировать. Поэтому ветхости в Казани не осталось, посмотреть в этом плане особо не на что. Разве что на окраинах города сохранились какие-то полуразвалившиеся хрущевки с сомнительными личностями у подъездов. А в центре все жилые дома отгроханы по самым европейским меркам с русско-татарским размахом.
Чтобы проникнуться городом, надо много-много гулять по улицам. Что мы и делали, не давая спать нашей Тане, которой на момент поездки в Казань было четыре с половиной года. Рассматривание фотографий такого эффекта не даст (но общее представление получить можно). Надо гулять, обходить по кругу достопримечательности (ждите пост!) и заходить туда, куда зайти можно. Итак, идем в Кремль.
Казанский Кремль
Сразу скажу – видеть надо. Это то, что посмотреть в Казани нужно в первую очередь. Не для галочки, а для себя. И снова удивиться новодельности, смотрящей с каждого отштукатуренного камня. Здесь идеально чисто. Еще чище, чем во всем остальном городе (хотя куда уж чище?…). Все отполировано и побелено так, что снега Эльбруса померкнут. Хотя сама по себе идея собрать воедино две религии достойна уважения.
Казанский Кремль огромен. Честно. Когда оказываешься внутри, складывается ощущение, что попал в минигород с открытки. Или в квест из подростковой игры без адреналиновых игр.
Фотографии у Кремля получатся красивые (не зря же здесь все так наремонтировано), погуляете с удовольствием. Но, повторюсь, как по территории музея, а не древней достопримечательности. Возможно, даже дыхание в зобе сопрет (как изменить слово «сперло» в данном контексте?). Погуляем?
Главная улица Кремля – проезд Шейкмана – является самой старой улицей Казани. По ней тысячу лет назад, если верить легенде, проскакал некто на лошади, остановился над крутым обрывом и заверещал: «Нет лучшего места для крепости!». Видимо, в этой легенде про котел кипящий без костра, не знали…
По проезду Шейкмана в разные годы прошли все, кто только можно – татарские ханы, Иван Грозный, Екатерина II. И мы, в конце концов.
На территории казанского Кремля есть несколько музеев и интересных построек:
Мечеть Кул Шариф;
Башня Сююмбике;
Спасская башня;
Благовещенский собор;
Губернаторский дворец;
Музей;
И еще немного по мелочи.
В музей мы не ходили, но все остальное посмотрели.
Башня Сююмбике грозится упасть набок. Но это такая хитрая задумка. На фото, правда, наклона незаметно, но она действительно падает…
Легенд вокруг башни ходит много. Но даты ее постройки и имя того, кто отдал приказ о строительстве, неизвестны. Доподлинно известно лишь, что жила в Казани некая Сююмбике. Она была единственной женщиной правителем Казанского ханства, овдовела… И то ли сама в память о муже построила башню, то это сделал по ее просьбе Иван Грозный (это было условием для согласия на брак Сююмбике с русским царем). Иван Грозный постарался, выстроил семь ярусов башни за семь дней, сел за свадебный стол… А новоиспеченная супруга поднялась на седьмой ярус, да и сиганула вниз. Но это всего лишь легенда. Правды мы никогда не узнаем, как не узнаем и причины, по которой башня клонится на бок.
Спасская башня – одно из главных строений Казани. В ней расположен один из входов/выходов в Кремль. Высота башни – 46,6 метров. На фоне разноцветия смотрится вполне неплохо, но, опять-таки, слишком чистенько.
Еще одна достопримечательность Кремля — Благовещенский собор. Этот, по сравнению со всем остальным, что можно посмотреть в Казани, и впрямь древний. Построен Благовещенский собор был в 16 веке, много раз перестраивался, в 1928 году лишился колокольни, на месте которой теперь разбит сквер (к нему мы еще вернемся). О Благовещенском соборе есть неплохая статья в Википедии, дублировать ее здесь не имеет смысла.
Дворцовая церковь. Если верить слухам, построена на месте древней мечети. В этой церкви находится музей Республики Татарстан.
Мечеть Кул Шариф. То, рядом с чем фотографируются все православные туристы. Внутрь попасть можно совершенно спокойно. Тихо. По-кружевному. И снова — блестяще как-то. И снаружи и внутри.
Губернаторский дворец. Красив. Как, впрочем, и все на территории казанского Кремля. Но подойти к нему близко не получится, если вы тут оказались с туристическими целями, а не приглашены специально президентом Татарстана. Потому что это президентская резиденция.
Зодчие Казанского Кремля. Их два – русский и татарин. Этакий собирательный образ, установленный совсем недавно. Стоят они в крошечном скверике, русский зодчий держит в руках чертеж Спасской башни, а у татарина какой-то свиток… Утверждается, что это чертеж Ханского дворца. Но утверждать можно что угодно – ничего не видно. Рядом стоят лавочки и можно передохнуть.
Наше мнение – красиво, но истории нет совершенно. Повторяемся, да? Посмотреть Кремль, оказавшись в Казани, нужно. Но «этот камень трогал Иван Грозный» — такого не будет. Давным-давно все перелицовано. А реставрация жестоко уничтожила даже винтажный налет.
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